Why vintage sizing is a riddle worth solving
Forget what you know about modern sizes! Shopping vintage is like treasure hunting in a world where labels lie, numbers have changed, and every era rewrites the rules. The ’50s “size 12” might fit like today’s 6, and some vintage finds have no tag at all. But the reward—a fit that flatters and a piece nobody else has—is worth every ounce of detective work.
Fast answer box
Measure yourself, compare flat garment measurements, allow ease for movement, and use your largest body measurement as your guide. Ignore the tag—your tape measure never lies.
Why vintage clothing sizes are different—and why the tag is (almost) useless
No Standardization
Brands and eras had wildly different standards. A size 12 from the ’60s is often smaller than a size 6 today.
Vanity Sizing
Modern brands use bigger numbers for smaller fits; vintage was honest (and smaller) about measurements.
Individual Tailoring
Many garments were handmade or custom-altered, ignoring factory conventions altogether.
Changing Silhouettes
Each decade favored a different shape—tiny waists in the 1950s, looser fits in the 1970s, oversized blazers in the 1980s.
The golden rule: measure, don’t guess
📏 Take Your Own Measurements
Use a soft tape and measure over undergarments:
Bust: Fullest part of chest, wearing a bra
Waist: Smallest part, above the belly button
Hips: Fullest point, ~7″ below waist
Shoulders: Tip-to-tip for jackets/coats
Inseam: Groin to trouser hem
Length: Collar/shoulder to hem
📐 Compare with Flat Measurements
Most sellers list garments measured flat:
➤ Double flat widths to get full circumference (e.g., 19cm = 38cm)
➤ Always rely on listed measurements, not the size tag
➤ Compare with a similar piece that fits you well
🧵 Allow for Ease & Fit
Vintage fits vary—especially tailored pieces like 1940s suits:
➤ Add 1–2″ (2–4cm) to body measurements for comfort
➤ Prioritize your largest measurement when choosing size
✂️ Don’t Be Afraid to Alter
Too big is better than too tight—tailoring is your friend.
➤ Go up a size and adjust for a custom fit
➤ Vintage garments often deserve a second life with the right tailoring
Understanding size conversions & era codes
📏 Era Differences
A 1950s UK size 16 equals today’s 10–12. US vintage sizes tend to run smaller. Always check real garment measurements—not just tags.
🔢 Vintage Size Codes
Old tags use codes like W (waist) or B (bust). Modern S/M/L sizing only came post-70s. Sellers often convert vintage to modern fits.
📊 Conversion Charts
Look for sizing charts on seller sites. These guides translate vintage tags to modern equivalents—essential when buying online.
| Vintage Era Tag | Modern Equivalent | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| UK 12 (1960s) | UK 8 or even 6 | Always check cm/inch measures |
| USA 14 (1950s) | Modern 8 or 10 | May fit very petite! |
| “W28” | 28 inch waist | Flat measurement x2 |
| S/M/L | Check measurement | “M” can vary wildly |
Real tips from vintage pros
- Always ask: If a listing lacks measurements (or a key area, like arm or rise), contact the seller before buying.
- Don’t trust only one type: Try the garment on, if possible—or buy from shops with clear return/exchange policies.
- Fabric matters: No stretch means you need more room. Silk or rigid cotton needs a little more ease. Elastic? You can go closer to your actual size.
- Check the intended fit: Many eras were made to be worn with certain undergarments (longline bras, slips, girdles)—think about how you want to wear yours.
FAQ: vintage sizing made simple
Why are size tags so unreliable?
What if I’m between sizes—or nothing seems perfect?
Choose the larger size. A tailor is your best friend for minor tweaks that keep the garment’s soul.
Table: how to size vintage clothing at a glance
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1
Measure yourself
Bust, waist, hips, length—you decide the fit
-
2
Compare to flat measurements
Find actual garment sizes via seller info
-
3
Allow ease
Add 2–4cm or 1–2in for comfort
-
4
Prefer your largest measurement
Better too large than too small
-
5
Use conversion guides
Find era-to-modern size help online
Fashion tip: “try before you buy”—offline or online!
If you can visit a shop, bring a tape and measure your favorites on the spot. Online, have a measurement list ready and never hesitate to ask for more details—or additional photos. The best vintage finds come to those who measure twice, buy once.
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